Days 18 and 19 2017

            Day 18 and hotter than day 17!  Hard to imagine, close to 100!  The heat and wind were oppressive like Stalin and Idi Amin rolled into one.  I did grow enough brain cells to start off earlier, much closer to 8:00. 

At the campgrounds I must leave the battery, the computer, the camera, and the I-Pod in public places, usually the washrooms, to charge.  Having had one I-Pod stolen on my trip with Aaron, I am more cautious.  My trust depends on the goodness of others.  On the bike it is the same.  How watchful are the drivers? 

Paranoia pops up while hunting for items around the campsite.  When a desired item cannot be found following a cursory search surprisingly suspect a theft.  This morning, after waking for a potty break, the toilet paper was absent.  Believe or not, the crazy thought thundered into a frontal lobe, “Goddam, someone stole my toiler paper!” 

This well cultivated farmland is sprinkled with immense grain elevators rising into the blue horizon like new cathedrals.  Fields of olden grain line one side of the road with acres of ripening sun flowers on the other.  The black and yellow blossoms of early bloomers wave above the sea of dark green.

This route was part of journeys taken in 2013 and 2014, once going north and once going south.  Several sites were a joy to see again, the world is immutable.

            The first stop in Doue-la-Fontaine yields a “Hardy” charging station in the 13^th century church.  While waiting, I enjoyed a light lunch and searched for Office de Tourisme.  The kind attendant suggested a biking path to Thouars that added an hour and several kilometers, not my kind of arithmetic on this hot and windy day.  The common theme is to usher cyclists onto biking paths both for safety of the cyclists and the convenience of the cars and lorries.

            Next bead on the rosary was Le-Puy-Notre-Dame.  This small hilltop village continues to rest in the shadow of the medieval era with narrow winding streets and an impressive cathedral.  What a tremendous legacy the Catholic Church has left to the people of France!  Imagine a village this small having a cathedral this large!

            The large crucifixes in the countryside are more numerous than the WW I memorials in the villages.

            An hour later I cycled into the large city of Thouars.  The town stretched on, kilometer after kilometer.  Cars, trucks, and cyclists rumbled over the poorly maintained streets.  This cathedral was only slightly larger than the one in Le-Puy-Notre-Dame and was located across the street from the Office of Tourisme that was closed for the noon break.  I needed help clearing the town and would have to wait for the reopening at 2.  In the meantime I finished my lunch outside the church while the battery recharged inside near the altar.  A pilgrim asked about the battery.

            A cluster of pitch and timber houses, one with a dangerous tilt, mixed in with more recent construction.  Two vivacious young ladies sat outside a brassiere while two older gentlemen relaxed over beers at a nearby bistro.

            Out of town I was back on familiar territory, one extremely busy road and one marvelous biking road leading to Jean-Louis home south of Saint-Generoux.  His idyllic house is wedged between a chalky cliff and a fast flowing stream.  He found this place in the 80’s and fell in love immediately.  The place fits him like a glove, unlike O.J. Simpson’s. 

            He was not home when I arrived.  He had left the kitchen door open.  A huge blackbird or crow fluttering about in the kitchen startled me.  This was not Alain’s cute little lovebirds.   

This kind man had rescued the bird after falling from a nest.  The bird eats from his hand and sits on his shoulder like a parrot.  He flies away but continues to return.  Jean-Louie expects that in three weeks he will not.

            Jean-Louie is the older brother of Marie-Line and Isabelle.  He is the age of my younger brother Jim, born in 1951.  In his 20’s he hitchhiked by himself to India.  He has returned several times.  He has sailed across the Atlantic and Mediterranean.  After working for years in the health industry he retired on a full pension. Like his sisters he does not have any children.  This portion of the Baudron family will end with this generation.  He is a wonderful conversationalist and our talks are always immensely enjoyable.

            The last day’s journey, the 19^th day, was the longest of the tour, almost 50 miles.  The route flowed south through Airvault, St. Loup-s-Thouet, St-Maixent-l’Ecole, and Creche before ending in Fressines.  Most of the roads were country paths with little traffic.  Only the road into Creche was problematic with impatient cars and trucks darting by like wasps searching for prey.

            The good news was that the temperature dropped several degrees under overcast skies.  Even the wind had lessened.  Both conditions featured good cycling and I made excellent time the entire day.

            The small church in La Peyratte was open.  The battery was recharged and I finished the salad and one of the beers that Jean-Louis had packed.  I arrived in Fressines easily inside the deadline of 4:00. 

            Friday’s dinner was hosted by Philippe and Veronique and shared with Serge and Marie-Line.  The four of them are visiting California from the 5^th of July to the 17^th.  Her house is a clever renovation of three smaller homes from the late 19^th century teeming with nooks and crannies.

            Saturday I forced myself to stay off the bike.  Isabelle and I went looking for a part for my VW camper.  Parts for this vintage of camper are extemely difficult to find in the US.  A similar story holds true for France.  The friendly clerk said that these campers are much in demand.  To illustrate his point he brought up a listing for a one-year younger model, 1990, for 29000 euros.  Besides being a year younger, a diesel engine, an awning, and fewer miles boosted the value.   

            Then we were off to Les Halles for special shopping, fish, cheese, mussels, oysters, and tomatoes.  We also checked the clothing stalls for the colorful African pants that I covet.  Sadly, nothing matched my expectation.

            Saturday evening we feasted with Marie-Line and Serge.  The 22 pounds lost on the tour are coming back too quickly.  We also played a fun game of TAC TIX.  The game is sold only on line and goes for 108 euros.  A limited number of orders are taken annually as each set is handcrafted.

            Sunday, I was back on the bike for a short hour and a half circuit.  Without the trailer I sailed along in high gear barely using the electricity.

Dinner was with friends of Isabelle and Gerard, Alain from across the road and John-Paul and Lizette from farther away.  Before dinner the four men played a team game of Boules.  At first, I felt sorry for Alain since he was saddled with me.  Unbelievably, he and I did a Rocky Balboa and pulled out an exciting win, 13-12.  At one point we were down 9 to 2.  Gerard and Jean-Paul were tough competitors but gracious losers.  Alain is an excellent player.  I was pleased that I could contribute a little to our success.

Isabelle did her “simple” once again.  This time it included a mountain of mussels deliciously prepared in onions and white wine.  She would be a great success in a restaurant.  She says that she would not enjoy preparing food for strangers.  She enjoys sharing her talents with family and friends.

Off to Paris tomorrow!

Much joy!!

Hardy